M50, Shanghai

• Chinese contemporary art has been the hottest thing in the art world for the past decade and there’s no sign of the boom ending, with collectors around the world paying record prices for the work of top artists like Zhang Xiaogang (whose paintings sold for a total of US$57 million in 2007). Běijīng may dominate the art scene in China, but Shànghǎi has its own thriving gallery subculture, centred on this complex of industrial buildings down dusty Moganshan Rd in the north of town. Although many of the artists who originally established the enclave are long gone, it is well worth putting aside a half-day to poke around the many galleries here. There’s some challenging, innovative art as well as work that won’t last, and there are places to sip coffee and eat noodles once you run out of steam. Most galleries are open from 10am to 6pm; some close on Monday. Maps are available at the main entrance (try the security guard if you can’t find them). The most established gallery here, the 10-year old ShanghART (Xiānggénà Huàláng; 6359 3923; www.shanghartgallery.com; Bldg 16 & 18) has a big, dramatic space to show the work of some of the 40 artists it represents. The top-notch and provocative island6 (6227 7856; www.island6.org; 2nd fl, Bldg 6) focuses on collaborative works created in a studio behind the gallery. OFoto (6298 5416; 2nd fl, Bldg 13) features China-related photography exhibitions. Other notable galleries include Art Scene (Yìshùjǐng Huàláng; 6277 4940; 2nd fl, Bldg 4) and twocities (5252 1518; www.twocitiesgallery.com; 2nd fl, Bldg 0), the latter of which specialises in 3D art. Across the street is m97 (6266 1597; www.m97gallery.com; 2nd fl, 97 Moganshan Rd; 10.30am-6.30pm Tue-Sun), an innovative photography gallery. Gentrification was inevitable, and you can now also browse shops like Shirt Flag (Bldg 17), Art Deco (Bldg 7) as well as several clothing boutiques. When your legs finally give way, take a seat at Bandu Cabin, which provides drinks, peanut butter sandwiches (Y12) and noodles (Y18) as well as traditional Chinese music concerts (Saturdays from 8pm). Other evening entertainment includes Image Tunnel, which has slideshows and independent Chinese films, and twocities, which holds improv jazz concerts once or twice a month (Friday at 7.30pm).
  
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